The power distribution of these phenomena is plotted on the Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum. Averaging the largest third of a sample of these phenomena is used to calculate a “significant” measure of their size denoted H-sub-s. The tangent of alpha over the square root of the relative size of these phenomena equals the Iribarren number. Groins dissipate high-energy types of these phenomena, which are caused by a longer fetch. Collisions between these phenomena form their large and destructive “rogue” type. These phenomena recede perpendicularly before returning at an oblique angle when transporting sediment through longshore drift. For 10 points, shoaling involves a change in what phenomena’s height, which is measured from crest to trough? ■END■
ANSWER: ocean waves [or sea waves or water waves; accept shallow water waves or wind waves or rogue waves; accept significant wave height]
<Other Science>
= Average correct buzz position