An equation describing these phenomena was derived by Davis and Acrivos and uses the Hilbert transform to model instantaneous pressure. The use of Jacobi elliptics to solve a form of these phenomena leads to them being called cnoidal (“cuh-NOY-dull”). By setting a parameter describing these phenomena equal to infinity in the ILW equation, one recovers the Benjamin–Ono equation. Solving the differential equation [read slowly] “u triple prime minus six u u prime minus c u prime equals zero” gives one of these phenomena that is proportional to hyperbolic secant squared and that maintains its shape. These phenomena are called collapsing if their Iribarren number is sufficiently large. The first observed soliton was one of these phenomena. These phenomena reach a critical point and then break, leading to eddies. For 10 points, name these phenomena that include tsunamis. ■END■
ANSWER: water waves [accept any body of water so long as they say waves; accept solitons until read; accept surface waves or (surface) gravity waves or wind waves or breaking waves or deep water waves or intermediate water waves or shallow water waves; accept breakers until “break” is read; prompt on waves by asking “in what medium?”] (The first line is the Benjamin-Ono equation. The third line is the depth parameter. The differential equation is KdV.)
<Physics>
= Average correct buzz position